Genkoan Temple

Introduction

Genko-an sits at the foot of Takagamine in north Kyoto, a Soto Zen temple founded in 1346. It lies on none of the main routes from Kyoto Station, Gion or Arashiyama and costs a forty-five-minute bus ride, which buys noticeably thinner crowds. Two windows side by side in the main hall are why it is remembered: the round 'window of enlightenment' stands for Zen, all-pervading insight and the cosmos, while the square 'window of bewilderment' refers to birth, age, illness, death and the eight sufferings. They are a pair rather than two photo stops; sit until your eyes adjust to the dark hall and let the frames gather the Tsurukame garden outside into a picture before reaching for a camera. Takagamine's maples turn a week later than the city centre, and in mid-to-late November the red through the windows plus the reflection on the polished shoin floor, known as yuka-momiji, make one of Kyoto's defining autumn images. The ceiling holds something heavier: it is a 'blood ceiling' made from boards on which Torii Mototada and his garrison killed themselves when Fushimi Castle fell in 1600, later moved here, with stains and grain still legible, a hard counterpoint to the calm of the windows. Shoes come off inside and flash is forbidden. On some autumn dates the temple admits pre-booked groups only, so independent travellers can be turned away; pairing it with Koetsu-ji and Josho-ji makes the round trip worthwhile as a half day in Takagamine.

✨ Highlights

🛈 Practical Info